Vadodara, as locals say, isn't the most famous place for tourist destinations in India. In fact, most people haven't even heard of this city at all. When a traveler goes to India, it's almost always expected that the travel destination is either Agra, Mumbai, New Delhi, Chennai, or Jaipur.
Where is Vadodara?
India has 29 states and 7 union territories. Gujarat, widely known as the "jewel of the West," is India's 6th biggest state, which lies on the western coast of the country and is an hour and a half plane ride from the capital city. It's known to be the birthplace of the incumbent prime minister Narendra Modi, who also served as a chief minister of the state a few years ago. Vadodara is among the most visited place in the state following Ahmedabad and Surat, which are equally popular to foreigners because of the rich culture and its unique festivals which makes Vadodara iconic and phenomenal.
I arrived in Vadodara from Air India connecting flight via Delhi on the early morning of August 18, 2019, and stayed in Effotel Sayaji, one of the popular hotels located near the Kalaghoda Circle in Sayajigunj, just across Sayaji Baug, the biggest garden in Western India. I chose to stay in this hotel primarily because it's the nearest among the tourist attractions that I want to see - Lakshmi Vilas Palace, Kirti Mandir, Sayaji Baug, Baroda Museum And Picture Gallery, Sursagar Lake, Tapovan Temple, and a lot more temples around town which can be visited on foot, or by their local three-wheeled passenger carts.
1. SAYAJI BAUG
Right at the hotel can be seen as the nearest tourist attraction available, the Sayaji Baug, a large park, or better described as an extensive garden found at the heart of the city. It's more than 100-acre land that houses the Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery; the Sayaji Baug Zoo; there's the Deer Nilgai Park, Tiger Park, Lion's Pride, and Hippo House; the Rainbow Fountain; the amazing Clock Garden; the 200-seater Sardar Patel Planetarium which looks like Universal Studios from afar; and the Toy Train Station which is now used as an amusement ride but I heard from locals that it was built for the Prince of Sayaji which transports him to get to school during the ancient times.
2. LAKSHMI VILAS PALACE
Locals say that if there is only one place you have to see in Vadodara, you shouldn't miss the pride of the Gaekwads, considered to be the most distinguished Royal Family of Baroda from the Maratha bloodline, their colossal Lakshmi Vilas Palace, known to be four times bigger than London's Buckingham Palace. When I bought a Lakshmi Vilas Palace-designed refrigerator magnet in Vadodara Souvenir Shop, the proprietor shared the tragic story about how the palace was built by Major Charles Mant, its architect who started it all. She said that Mant committed suicide after miscalculating the design of the palace and the main entrance was mapped out facing the rear of the royal building. Robert Chisholm was then commissioned to complete the design, who was an Indo-Saracenic architect in Madras.
I visited the place on my first day after my long walk at Sayaji Baug, just a 10-min drive from their public transportation, and only cost me ₹25 for the ride. The rickshaw driver warned me that I can't use my DSLR to take pictures of the palace but I ignored him because I saw a lot of blogs and photos of the place posted online. I got off at the gate as it is required to register at the security office. When the officer saw my DSLR hung on my shoulders, he immediately told me I can't use my camera from anywhere within the premises. I looked back at the rickshaw driver and he shrugged his shoulders like he's telling me indirectly "you dumb ass, you didn't believe me." I asked permission to take at least just one picture from afar, and he told me that the closest that he can allow me is not beyond that point where I was.
I went to the parking area which leads to the visitor counter and there were many other security officers who stopped me when they saw me approaching with a DSLR hung on my shoulders. I was told that photography within the palace is not allowed. I acknowledged that I was already warned so I will be using only my camera phone to take pictures. He squinted at me, with a bubble thought above his head full of exclamation points, and pointed towards a sign that shows photography using all kinds of camera is prohibited. I was dumbfounded! Taking pictures is my primary and only purpose in coming here but not being allowed to use any of my cameras is futile. Totally a waste of time. I couldn't even take a selfie.
I considered my trip to Vadodara to be incomplete and pointless without a single picture of the intricate architectural designs of the palace, so I decided to come back the following day, without my DSLR and with my newfound friend Ajay Kumar Badaik, an Odisha local who now works in Baroda. It's really a total advantage to have your own personal tour guide, who speaks the local language, to be bringing you to places you think you can't go to. On his motorbike, we drove from Danteshwar towards Jawaharlal Nehru Marg and made our way to the security gate. He did all the talking and bargaining. And when I thought that I will win over this attempt to take pictures of the palace, Ajay's prowess wasn't really much of a help at all. We still can't get in to take pictures. Ajay didn't accept defeat so he took my camera phone and asked me to stand right next to the gate and snapped the shutter multiple times. When we saw the officer approaching, we jumped hurriedly to his motorbike and drove off to the next block - at the Gate 2 of the palace. It's probably the only unrestricted part of the palace where you can freely take unlimited pictures of the gate... and you.
Opening Days - Tuesdays to Sundays only
Visiting Hours (Palace) - 10:00 a.m. - 05:00 p.m.
Visiting Hours (Museum) - 10:30 a.m. - 05:30 p.m.
Fees - (Palace) ₹200 each
(Museum) ₹60 - Indians, ₹60 - Children, ₹150 - Foreigners
3. KASHI VISHWANATH TEMPLE
On the same street from Lakshmi Vilas Palace lies a temple that can be visited by tourists. It's just a 15-minute walk from Gate 2 but Ajay's motorbike only took 3 minutes to get to Lalbaug Bridge where the temple is. As soon as we stood in front of the temple's entrance gate, I fell in love with it instantly. I know that it's not even comparable to the most mesmerizing and awe-inspiring architecture of thousands of other known temples in India, but to me, this is already the most impressive and majestic building I have seen so far.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple is the religious dwelling place of Lord Shiva, where devotees visit the temple to seek fulfillment for salvation, wealth, relief from diseases, and to gain knowledge. When you pray to Lord Shiva, you should have a composed mind with a clean and pleasant heart to get your desires and your wishes will be blessed. At that time of our visit, there were a few devotees who were at the temple and it is highly regarded to maintain silence and a peaceful environment.
I took several shots from my camera, almost continuous from different angles when a monk approached us and spoke to me in Gujarati. I can't understand him but he was gesturing about taking photos of the temple so I asked Ajay what he meant. He said that taking pictures without permission is highly discouraged. I got scared that my camera will either be confiscated or I will be brought to a holding area but Ajay took care of getting to their office to explain our purpose.
Lesson learned: Always ask permission before taking pictures!
4. KIRTI MANDIR PALACE
Just another 7 minutes motorcycle ride towards the direction of my hotel is another popular tourist attraction where the famous Temple of Fame, a royal mausoleum of the Gaekwad lineage, stands in its most glorious state.
As we reached the gate of the palace, we were greeted by the curator who was signaling us to go straight to the exhibit area. We got confused but we tried to comply so we parked at the designated area where the exhibit was. Surprisingly, a banner was hoisted at an arch showing the dates of the photography exhibit from local journalists of Vadodara. We concluded that the curator must have mistaken us as participants for the exhibition so I took advantage of the confusion and I went around Kirti Mandir Palace to take several shots. It was really breathtaking to be witnessing this marvelous monument which was set up in honor of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III's silver jubilee celebration. The marble-treated interiors are wonderfully decorated with intricately carved murals. Its astonishing architectural designs are really mind-boggling and wondrous. It was really difficult to find words on how to describe this cenotaph in expressing total admiration. It's my epitome of perfection.
We went into the photo exhibit and looked at the impressive pictures taken by the journalists. Ajay, who served as my instant tourist guide, overwhelmed me with tons of stories that each of the pictures can say. I couldn't contain my amazement. As it was already closing time, only the journalists were left in the area and a group of five Indian men shook hands with me which they thought that I am a photojournalist myself. Thanks to the DSLR hanging on my shoulders that got me into some sort of advantages. I explained my purpose of visiting Kirti Mandir and everyone started to flock to our area. Everyone was friendly and accommodating. Each one has his own story to share while some even offered to tour me around the city where I can take better pictures. It was really unexpected and it gave me higher respect for Indians. Today is unbelievable!
Opening Days - Mondays to Sundays
Visiting Hours - 10:00 a.m. - 06:00 p.m.
No Fees
5. BARODA MUSEUM and PICTURE GALLERY
Before I went back home to the Philippines on 22nd Aug, I went to Vadodara Central Mall for a little stroll since I still have a lot of remaining time before my flight in the evening. On my way back to the hotel, the rickshaw that I got into took a different route than what's in my Waze, and surprisingly, it took the University Road where Sayaji Baug is. Perhaps it's not a coincidence to get to this place because it suddenly crossed my mind that I haven't even bought any souvenir items to bring home to my loved ones yet. That's when I saw the signage of Vadodara Souvenir Shop, which is just across a covered platform where a rounded garden is built for live music performances, events, and practicing yoga.
The shop has almost everything that a tourist would be looking for - from keychains, souvenir books and memorabilia, shirts, personal items, embroidery, Indian stuff, and jewelry, to knick-knacks and whatnots; worthy of remembering the places you have visited in Vadodara. It's amazing to see a one-stop-shop in such a small place like this. I bought a few shot glasses to add to my collection and lots of refrigerator magnets which I would give to my friends back home.
Effotel Hotel Vadodara is just a few steps away from Sayaji Baug so I decided to walk back to the hotel passing by one of the captivating museums in the country. The Indo-Saracenic architectural design of the building is so enthralling that it reminds me of the way Lakshmi Vilas Palace was created. True enough, I talked to one local of the city who has been working in the museum for 18 years now and I was told that the same architects, Mant and Chisholm, were responsible for making this museum a marvelous spectacle. Taking photos is also not allowed unless you submit a permission letter addressed to the director of the museum and pay a photography fee of ₹100 plus the entrance fee of ₹200. Indians are only charged ₹10 for each guest and ₹5 for each student. Since I didn't take any picture, I thought of sharing the pictures here from the Museums of India website instead.
Opening Days - Mondays to Sundays
Visiting Hours - 10:30 a.m. - 05:00 p.m.
Fees - Entrance: Indian guest - ₹10, Indian student ₹5, Foreigner - ₹200
Photography: ₹100, Videography: ₹500